Sienna

Europeans do something that Americans really don't. At major intersections, they build large cobblestone squares and fill them with statues. Usually, the square is surrounded with beautiful buildings from several centuries of European architecture. In modern times, small restaurants have outdoor cafes on the flat sides and traffic has been banned, so they've become large open air museums and gathering places.

Because the streets of these cities are invariably narrow and winding, you can't really see these piazzas until you're 30 or 40 feet from them. The darkness of the streets will suddenly open up to a sunny view of the plaza, usually with some ornate public building, like a church or a city hall dominating one side being illuminated by the sun, or casting long, interesting shadows.

People speaking many languages and on different errands stride, saunter, stroll, wander or shuffle through the center. Old men with old women on their arms. Young men smoking cigarettes on break from their jobs. Women in large sunglasses and festive scarves on bicycles. Tourists in shirtsleeves taking pictures in all directions. Smartly dressed shopkeepers sweeping their sidewalk or hawking their wares. Priests or cops standing sternly or shifting from foot to foot in boredom. Children chasing pigeons with ice cream and smiles on their faces.

It is so wonderfully natural, but also so alien, like feeling at home in a strangers house. On one occasion, I was sitting on the largest piazza of Siena, laying on the cobblestones and soaking up the sun. Its said to be among the best in Italy, though it would be impossible to ever see them all. Its pretty wonderful. 600 year old buildings in all directions and perfect light

We've been hitting it pretty hard and this is our last day in the Tuscan countryside before we go into Rome. Rachel is checking the guidebook for recommendations on drinks. She points to the end of the square opposite the government center. Two floors up is a 2 foot balcony over which hangs a sign that says, "Pub Sandwiches". “That's it right there."

We go. Its in the a tunnel like, English pub on the second floor overlooking the square that I had my first beer of the trip.

When in Rome, do as the Romans do, and so I had been drinking wine. In moderation, but with passion. Wine gives a slow buzz, a warm buzz, a pleasant buzz.

For me, though, its not like a beer. I order a British bitter in an Imperial Pint. Cold on a hot day, with the ability to wash away salt and grime. The first sip makes me excited, euphoric, enthusiastic. Makes me feel young and ready, strong and well loved.

So, with the sun setting and the sounds changing, we enjoyed the view from the balcony.